LED Floodlight

It all comes down to your power source. For new landscape lighting, low voltage (12V or 24V) is the way to go. It's safer to work with and the wiring is more forgiving. You'll need a transformer to step down your home's main power. If you're just replacing an existing fixture on a wall or pole that's already wired to a switch, a 120V AC mains-powered floodlight is a direct swap. 

Don't get hung up on watts—look at lumens (lm). With LEDs, wattage tells you power consumption, not brightness. A well-designed 50W LED floodlight can be brighter than a poorly designed 70W one. For example, our 50W RGB+CCT floodlight puts out up to 4,000 lumens, while our 100W model hits 8,500 lumens. For context, a typical 100W incandescent bulb is only about 1,600 lumens. Always check the lumen rating on the spec sheet to compare true brightness.

It's all about the quality of the white light. An RGB floodlight makes white by mixing Red, Green, and Blue. It works, but it often has a bluish or pinkish tint. An RGBW light adds a dedicated white chip, giving you a much purer, higher-quality white light. RGB+CCT is the next step up: it has separate warm white and cool white chips, so you can mix any color you want *and* tune the white light from a warm 2700K to a cool 6500K. 

You've got options depending on the model. We have Zigbee models that pair with hubs like Philips Hue, SmartThings, or Amazon Echo Plus for app and voice control. Others use WiFi or Bluetooth and a smartphone app. For more complex projects, we have addressable WS2811 floodlights and DMX512-controlled units. DMX is the standard for professional stage and architectural lighting, giving you rock-solid, centralized control over large installations. Your choice depends on whether you need simple remote control or a synchronized light show.