SuperLightingLED · technical reference
LED Help Centre
Everything below is about LED strip and LED aluminium profile — the products we actually build. Written for people specifying a job, not for people browsing. Every answer links to the products or the deeper guide behind it. Almost everything referenced here is on the SuperLightingLED shelf and ships in 24–48 hours; where a job needs a length, colour temperature or connector we do not stock, our own production floor makes that too.
Specification first
Choose by run length, ambient temperature and IP class — brightness comes after those.
Free engineering
Send the run length and we return the LED driver sizing and feed points. Before you order.
Lifetime support
Ask us a technical question in year six. Same answer, same people, no fee.
01 — Help Centre
Choosing an LED strip light
Get these four right and everything else follows.
Voltage decides run length. 24V halves the current for the same power, so the far end of a long run stays as bright as the near end.
COB vs SMD. COB has no visible dots — use it wherever the LED strip light is seen directly rather than as reflected light.
Addressable vs plain. Addressable LED strip light drives each LED (or group) individually from one data line.
Which type of LED strip light do I actually need?
Start from what the light has to do. One fixed colour temperature for coves, task and architectural lines → single-colour LED strip light. Colour changing for retail, hospitality and feature work → RGB and RGBW. Individually controlled LEDs for animation and pixel effects → addressable LED strip. A continuous lit line with no dots → neon profile or COB LED strip. Long uninterrupted runs without voltage drop → constant-current LED strip.
Warm white or cool white?
2700K–3000K reads warm and domestic; 4000K neutral; 5000K–6500K cool and clinical. Residential and hospitality almost always want 3000K; offices, workshops and retail displays lean to 4000K; task and inspection lighting goes higher. Mixing colour temperatures in one sightline looks like a fault even when it is deliberate. Soft white vs daylight covers the choice properly.
What LED density should I choose?
Density is LEDs per metre, and it drives both brightness and dot visibility. Low density with a shallow LED aluminium channel and a clear cover shows individual dots. If the LED strip light will be seen directly rather than as reflected light, either raise the density, use a frosted cover, or move to COB — which has no visible dots at all.
Do I need high CRI?
For retail, food, galleries, cosmetics, showrooms and anywhere people judge a product by its colour: yes, specify CRI 90+. For cove lighting, backlighting and general architectural work, standard CRI is fine and costs less. What is Colour Rendering Index explains what the number measures.
How bright will it actually be?
Lumens per metre is the honest number, not watts. Watts tell you consumption; two LED strip lights at the same wattage can differ substantially in output. Diffusion also costs light — a frosted cover typically loses 15–30%. Tell us the effect you want and the mounting distance and we will work back to a density rather than guessing upward.
02 — Help Centre
Power and voltage
Where most installations go wrong, and where the fix is cheapest — before you order.
Polarity. Reversed polarity gives no light on most products — check it before assuming a fault.
Multiple runs on one supply. Feed them in parallel from the LED driver, not daisy-chained through each other’s copper.
12V or 24V?
24V for anything past about 5 metres in a single run. At the same power it draws half the current, so the voltage drop over the copper is far smaller and the far end stays as bright as the near end. 12V is fine for short runs and is sometimes forced by the equipment you are wiring into. See reasons for LED voltage drop.
How do I size the power supply?
Total wattage of the run, plus at least 20% headroom. An LED driver run permanently at 100% of its rating runs hot and fails early; the same LED driver at 80% lasts far longer. Also check the physical location — an LED driver sealed in an unventilated void needs more headroom than one in open air. Browse power supplies or read how to choose a power supply.
Why is the far end of my run dimmer?
Voltage drop along the copper track. It is physics, not a fault, and it is visible past roughly 5m on 12V and 10m on 24V depending on the wattage. The fix is injecting power at both ends, splitting the run into two feeds, or moving to constant-current LED strip light which regulates per segment. Send us the run length before ordering and we will mark the feed points.
Can I join two reels end to end?
Electrically yes, but the second reel is fed through the first one’s copper, so the drop compounds. Past the recommended single-run length, feed the second reel separately rather than daisy-chaining. How to connect LED strip lights shows both wiring patterns.
Constant voltage or constant current?
Most flexible LED strip light is constant voltage — 12V or 24V, and the resistors on the board set the current. Constant-current products regulate each segment, which keeps brightness even over much longer runs and tolerates supply variation better. If your run is long or the supply is not clean, constant current is worth the extra.
Can I run it from a battery or a vehicle supply?
Yes, with care. Vehicle supplies swing well above nominal 12V when charging, which can shorten LED life or cause failure. Either specify an LED strip light rated for the range or fit a regulator. For custom builds into equipment we usually recommend 24V with a proper regulated supply.
03 — Help Centre
Dimming and control
Four protocols, and they are not interchangeable.
TRIAC — mains-side, used when an existing wall dimmer has to stay.
0-10V — a separate control pair, standard in commercial installations.
DALI — addressable two-wire, for buildings with a control system.
DMX512 — stage and architectural work. Decoders daisy-chain, with a terminal resistor on the last one.
Can LED strip be dimmed?
Yes, but the dimmer has to match the LED driver. A domestic wall dimmer designed for incandescent lamps will usually flicker, buzz or refuse to strike an LED driver, and can damage it. Use a dimmer designed for the LED driver you have — see the LED controller range.
PWM, 0-10V, TRIAC or DALI — which one?
PWM switches the LED on and off very fast — simple, cheap, and the default for low-voltage LED strip light. 0-10V is a separate control pair, common in commercial installations — 0-10V explained. TRIAC is mains-side, used when the existing wall dimmer has to stay — TRIAC dimming. DALI is addressable, two-wire, for buildings with a control system — what DALI dimming is. For stage, architectural and pixel work the protocol is usually DMX — DMX control explained.
My dimmer flickers or will not go fully dark. Why?
Usually one of three things: the dimmer’s minimum load is above what the LED run draws, the dimmer type does not match the LED driver, or the LED driver is not a dimmable model. Check the LED driver’s data sheet first — a non-dimmable LED driver on a dimmer circuit is the most common cause and no dimmer will fix it.
How do addressable LED strip lights get controlled?
Each LED (or group) has a small LED driver chip and receives serial data down one line. The LED controller sends the sequence. Chip families differ — WS2812 vs WS2812B vs WS2812C — and they are not always interchangeable. Wiring and signal integrity matter more than with plain LED strip light: see how to wire addressable LED strip and the addressable range.
Can I control it from a phone or a building system?
Yes. WiFi and Bluetooth LED controllers handle app control; DALI, DMX and 0-10V integrate with building management. Tell us which system the site already runs and we will match the LED controller to it rather than adding a second app.
04 — Help Centre
Installation
Cut points only (circled). Cutting between them breaks the circuit for that whole segment.
Solderless LED strip connectors are faster but are the weak point outdoors or under vibration.
Splicing LED aluminium channel for runs longer than a single LED aluminium profile length.
Mounted in LED aluminium channel — heat sink first, diffuser second.
Where can I cut the LED strip light?
Only at the marked cut points — typically every 1, 3 or 6 LEDs depending on the product. Cutting between them breaks the circuit for that segment. Can you cut LED strip lights covers it. If you would rather not cut at all, we supply cut to your exact length with the ends sealed.
How do I join or extend a run?
Solder joints are the most reliable; solderless LED strip connectors are faster but are a weak point under vibration or outdoors. Whichever you use, support the joint mechanically — the copper pad is what fails when the cable is pulled. See choosing LED connectors and the LED connector range.
Does the adhesive backing hold on its own?
On clean, dry, smooth surfaces at normal temperature, usually. It does not hold reliably on rough plaster, dusty surfaces, textured powder coat, or anywhere hot. For anything permanent, mount in an aluminium channel — you get mechanical retention and heat sinking in the same part.
Do I really need an LED aluminium channel?
For anything running long hours, yes. It is a heat sink first and a diffuser second, and heat is what determines LED life. It also hides the dots and protects the LED strip light from knocks. See the LED aluminium profile range, the guide to choosing one, and flexible LED aluminium channel for curves.
Can it be bent around a corner?
Flexible LED strip light bends in one plane — along its length. It does not bend sideways or twist without stressing the pads. For a corner, either cut and rejoin with a short cable, use a corner LED strip connector, or specify neon profile which bends more freely. Never fold it back on itself.
Can it be installed in plaster or a sealed cavity?
Only with a heat path. LED strip light sealed into plaster with no LED aluminium channel and no ventilation runs far hotter than rated and fails early — and that is treated as installation damage rather than a warranty claim. See warranty and do LED strips overheat.
05 — Help Centre
Waterproofing and outdoor use
The single most common cause of a failed installation, and the easiest to avoid.
What the IP numbers actually mean. First digit solids, second liquids — and an IP rating is a specification, not a safety margin.
Outdoor installation. The failure is almost always at the joint, not the LED strip light itself.
What do the IP numbers mean?
First digit is solids, second is liquids. IP20 dry indoor only. IP65 splashes and rain, covered outdoor and bathrooms. IP67 exposed outdoor and brief accidental immersion. IP68 continuous submersion to the stated depth. Browse outdoor and waterproof LED strip light.
Can I put IP67 LED strip light in a pond?
No. IP67 covers brief accidental immersion, not permanent submersion — that is IP68, and even then only to the stated depth and normally not in chlorinated or salt water unless confirmed. An IP rating is a specification, not a safety margin, and using a product outside it is not a warranty claim. See the warranty page.
The LED strip light is waterproof but water still got in. How?
Almost always at the joint. The LED strip light is sealed at the factory; the LED strip connector fitted on site usually is not, so water enters where the cable meets the LED strip. Either use properly sealed connectors and seal the cut end, or have the assembly terminated at the factory so there is no site joint at all. How to cut and connect waterproof LED strip shows the correct method.
Does UV matter outdoors?
Yes. Cheap silicone and PVC yellow and go brittle under sunlight, which changes the colour of the light and eventually cracks the seal. For sunlit installations specify a UV-stable grade — tell us it is in direct sun and we will select accordingly.
What about cold climates?
LEDs themselves are happy cold — they last longer, if anything. The failures come from the silicone stiffening and cracking when flexed at low temperature, and from condensation inside a poorly sealed housing. Install at room temperature where possible and make sure enclosures can breathe or are properly sealed.
06 — Help Centre
Lifespan and heat
How long does LED strip actually last?
The quoted figure — usually 50,000 hours — is L70: the point at which output has faded to 70% of new, measured in a lab at a controlled temperature. In the field, heat and running hours decide the real number. A ventilated cove at 3 hours a day can pass 15 years; an unventilated outdoor sign in a hot climate at 12 hours a day may reach 3–4. How long do LED strip lights last has the working.
Why does heat matter so much?
As a working rule in the industry, every ~10°C rise in junction temperature roughly halves usable life. That single fact is why an aluminium channel is not cosmetic — it moves heat away from the chips. See do LED strips overheat.
Is gradual dimming over years a fault?
No, that is expected lumen depreciation — the L70 curve. An LED strip light at 85% output after five hard years is performing normally. An LED strip that dims noticeably within months is not, and that is a warranty claim.
Do LED strips get hot to touch?
High-density and high-output LED strip light does get warm, and that is normal. If it is too hot to hold comfortably, it is being run harder than its heat path allows — add an LED aluminium channel, improve ventilation, or drop the density. Heat is the one variable you can still change after installation.
07 — Help Centre
Troubleshooting
Work down the list in order — it is ordered by how often each turns out to be the cause.
Nothing lights at all
Check the supply is live and at the right voltage at the LED driver output, then check polarity at the LED strip light — reversed polarity gives no light and no damage on most products, so it is worth checking before assuming a fault. Then check the first cut point: if an LED strip was cut in the wrong place, the whole run downstream stays dark.
Part of the run works, the rest does not
The break is at the last working point. Usually a failed joint, a cut made outside a cut point, or a damaged pad. Measure the voltage at the start of the dead section — if it is present there, the fault is on the board; if not, it is upstream in the wiring.
It flickers
In order of likelihood: dimmer incompatible with the LED driver, LED driver undersized for the load, a loose joint, or an LED controller with a low PWM frequency. Try the LED strip light on a plain LED driver with no dimmer in circuit — if the flicker stops, the problem is the control side, not the LED strip.
Colours are wrong on an addressable LED strip light
Usually data-line related: wrong chip family assumed by the LED controller, data and ground not sharing a reference, or too long a data run before the first LED. Check the chip type against what the LED controller expects — WS2812 vs WS2812B vs WS2812C — and keep the LED controller close to the first pixel.
Two sections are visibly different in colour
If they came from different production batches, that is binning tolerance. It cannot be corrected after installation, which is why a continuous run should be ordered as one batch — tell us and we reserve it. If both sections are from the same batch, suspect voltage drop instead: under-driven LEDs shift slightly in appearance.
Still stuck?
Send us the order number, a photo of the installation, a photo of the wiring at the LED driver, and a short video if it flickers. Diagnosis is free at any age, in or out of warranty — see lifetime support.
08 — Help Centre
Terminology
The abbreviations that appear on every product page.
Colour temperature. 3000K warm, 4000K neutral, 6000K cool — mixing them in one sightline reads as a fault.
CRI 90+ — specify it wherever people judge a product by its colour.
SMD sizes are the LED package in tenths of a millimetre — 5050 is 5×5 mm.
COB — a continuous phosphor line with no visible dots.
SMD sizes — 2835, 3528, 5050, 5630
The physical size of the LED package in tenths of a millimetre. 3528 is 3.5 × 2.8 mm, 5050 is 5 × 5 mm. Larger packages generally handle more power and produce more light per LED, but package size alone does not tell you the output — check lumens per metre.
COB
Chip on Board — many small LEDs mounted directly on the board under a continuous phosphor layer, so the lit line has no visible dots at all. Ideal wherever the LED strip light is seen directly rather than as reflected light. What is COB LED strip, and a full breakdown of addressable COB.
L70 / L80 / L90
Lumen maintenance. L70 is the running time at which output has dropped to 70% of new. A higher number (L90) means a stricter definition and therefore a shorter quoted life for the same product.
CRI and SDCM
CRI is colour accuracy against a reference — explained here. SDCM (MacAdam steps) is how tightly the colour is binned: a 3-step tolerance means colour variation between LEDs is barely perceptible; 5-step is visible side by side on a white wall.
IP rating
Ingress Protection. First digit solids, second liquids. See section 05, and the full table on the warranty page.
Constant voltage vs constant current
Constant voltage supplies a fixed voltage (12V/24V) and the board limits current. Constant current regulates the current itself, which holds brightness steady over much longer runs. See constant-current LED strip light and constant current vs constant voltage LED drivers.
09 — Ask before you order, not after
The most useful thing on this page is not a page — it is the fifteen minutes we will spend on your specification for free.
Send us the run length
We return the LED driver sizing, the feed points and the expected voltage drop. Before you buy, not after it is installed.
Send us the environment
Ambient temperature, wet or dry, sunlit or not. We will tell you the IP class and whether the LED aluminium profile needs to be UV-stable.
Send us a photo
Of the socket, the fixture or the space. We identify LED strip connectors and spot mounting problems from photographs several times a week.
Ask for a sample
Free, you pay freight at cost. Holding the actual LED strip light settles a colour temperature argument faster than any spec sheet. Samples.
Still not sure?
Describe the job in one line — where it goes, how long the run is, and whether it gets wet. That is enough for us to specify from, and the answer costs nothing.
Technical guidance on this page comes from the SuperLightingLED engineers who build and test these products, and is given in good faith for planning purposes. Final responsibility for suitability in a particular installation rests with the buyer or their engineer — see terms of sale.
Keep reading
Related pages
How to Buy →
Four checkout steps, custom lengths, every way to pay (PayPal, cards, bank transfer in your currency) and what happens after you pay.
Applications →
50 real installations by room: kitchens, stairs, bedrooms, gardens, neon signs, shops. Every photo links to the strip or profile behind it.
Inside Our Factory →
How the LED strips in the SuperLightingLED warehouse are made: 16 stages from LED packaging to aging test, and which stage to ask for when you need a custom run.