2-Pin Single Color LED Strips Parts

That's exactly what these 2-pin connectors are for. For a straight run, you can use a strip-to-strip connector. You just open the clamps, slide the ends of your cut LED tape light in, and close them. For going around corners, we have L-shape, T-shape, and even flexible jumper connectors. The key is matching the connector's pin count (2-pin for single color) and width (e.g., 8mm or 10mm) to your strip's PCB.

It's a bad contact. First, check you have the right size connector for your strip's width (e.g., a 10mm connector for a 10mm PCB). Second, make sure the copper pads on the strip are clean and sitting right under the connector's metal pins. For piercing-style connectors, you really need to press firmly until you feel it bite through. A loose connection will cause flickering or failure. 

It depends. Most of our clear plastic clip-style connectors are a bit wider and taller than the LED strip itself. They will fit in many of our larger surface-mount aluminum channels, but they are often too bulky for slim, recessed, or plaster-in profiles. The screw-fixing terminal connectors and some of the newer COB connectors are more compact. Always check the connector's dimensions against the channel's internal width before you buy. A soldered joint is always the lowest-profile option if space is extremely tight.

You can use as many as you need to make the turns or jumps, but remember that every solderless connector adds a tiny bit of resistance. On a short run, you'll never notice. But on a long run like 20 ft or even 50 ft, the cumulative effect can contribute to voltage drop, making the end of the strip dimmer. For the best performance on long runs, it's better to use continuous strips where possible and solder your connections. If you must use connectors, use high-quality screw-terminal types, as they have a more secure, lower-resistance grip.

Yes, you absolutely do. Using a standard indoor IP20 connector on a waterproof strip won't work well and will fail over time. First, the piercing pins may not get through the thick silicone coating. Second, the connection won't be sealed from moisture. You need to use dedicated IP67 or IP68 waterproof connectors. 

Yes, we have several types. If you're talking about connecting two bare wires together to extend a power feed, our push-in or lever-style quick splice connectors are fantastic. You just strip the ends of the wires, push them in, and you're done. If you mean a connector to go from a strip to a pluggable wire, our strip-to-wire connectors with JST or Dupont style plugs are what you need. These are great for making modular connections or for easily disconnecting a section of lighting if it needs service.

Most of our standard 2-pin plastic clip connectors are rated for about 5 Amps. On a 12V system, that's 60 watts; on a 24V system, it's 120 watts. This is more than enough for typical 8 ft led light strips runs. If you are using very high-power strips or creating a long array, you'll exceed this. The screw-terminal connectors and some of the beefier wire-to-wire splice connectors can often handle more, up to 10A. Always check the product page specs for the specific amperage rating before you buy.

Absolutely. A huge part of what we ship is custom-built assemblies that never appear on the website. Just send us a sketch of what you need—it can be a simple hand drawing. Specify the wire lengths, the type of 2-pin connectors you want on the ends (e.g., strip-to-wire, waterproof DC plug), and the wire gauge. Our engineers will create a formal wiring diagram and a quote, usually within 12 hours. There's no fee for the design and no obligation to order. It ensures you get exactly what you need for a clean, professional install.