High Voltage RGB LED Strips

They're safe when you handle them correctly, but you're working with mains voltage (110V/220V), not 12V. The strip itself is fully insulated. The key is to make sure all connections are made with the power OFF at the breaker. Use the supplied power cord and never leave the cut ends exposed — always seal them with the end caps and silicone glue (not include).

The led light voltage going into your wall is 110V or 220V AC, but the LEDs themselves still run on low voltage DC. Each cuttable section of the high voltage LED strip has its own tiny rectifier and components that convert the AC to DC right on the strip. So while the input is high voltage AC, the actual voltage of a led chip is still low.

It's because of how they're wired internally. Unlike a 12V strip where every few LEDs form a circuit, a high voltage strip groups a much larger number of LEDs into a series circuit that runs on the rectified AC voltage. The cut mark is placed after a complete circuit group, which is why the interval is much longer, usually 0.5m or 1m.

If a single, distinct section between two cut marks goes out, it usually means a component within that specific series circuit has failed. Because these are wired in long series, that section isn't user-repairable. The fix is to cut out the bad section at the marked cut points and splice in a new piece using a pin connector.

For the strip itself, no. You can run it up to its maximum rated length—often 100 meters—from one plug without the end getting dim. That's their main advantage. You don't need a complex voltage drop calculator for the strip because the high voltage pushes power efficiently down the entire length.

The factory-sealed ends are fully waterproof, but a cut you make is only as waterproof as the seal you create. To maintain the IP67 rating, you must inject a generous amount of silicone sealant into the end cap before pushing it onto the strip's end. This creates a durable, watertight barrier. We also stock fully sealed IP68 connectors for splicing runs.

Standard high voltage RGB strips can only show one color at a time across the entire length. To get chasing effects or have different sections showing different colors, you need a high voltage *addressable* RGB strip, sometimes called RGBIC. We have models with dream color controllers and even some that run pre-programmed chases with no controller needed at all.

Each segment of the strip has a simple circuit that acts as an led voltage regulator. It takes the high voltage AC input, rectifies it to DC, and then drops the led on voltage to the correct level for that segment's group of LEDs. This ensures each LED gets the stable forward voltage it needs to operate without flickering or burning out.

Choose high voltage AC strips for long, continuous runs over 10-15 meters, especially outdoors. It simplifies wiring dramatically since you don't need multiple large DC power supplies and amplifiers. For shorter runs, or where you need very short cut points (like under-cabinet lighting), a low-voltage DC strip is the better choice. It's a trade-off between run length and cutting precision.

A very subtle, high-frequency flicker can sometimes be visible, especially on camera. This is inherent to how some simple AC-to-DC rectification circuits work inside the strip, which can have a slight ripple at twice the mains frequency (120Hz in the US). For most architectural applications, it's unnoticeable, but for video or sensitive environments, a high-quality constant voltage DC system is better.

Yes, absolutely. A huge part of our business is building custom lighting solutions that never appear on the website. For a project like that, you'd send us your drawing or even just a sketch with measurements. Our engineers will spec out the exact lengths of RGB neon flex, determine the power and control layout, and send you a complete parts list and quote, usually within 12 hours. There's no fee for the consultation.

It's simpler than with low voltage. The product page for the strip will list its power consumption in watts per meter (W/m). Just multiply that by your total length (e.g., 9 W/m x 50m = 450W). Then, select a compatible high-voltage controller and power plug combo that is rated for at least that wattage. Our guide to long LED strips has a section that walks through this calculation step-by-step.