Addressable LED Neon Lights

The main difference with an addressable LED neon strip is that you can control small sections of it independently. A standard RGB neon is one single color at a time—turn it red, the whole thing is red. With addressable, or 'RGBIC', you can make one part red, the next blue, and have rainbow or chasing effects move down the line. It's the same smooth neon look, just with much smarter control inside.

Yes, you can cut our addressable led neon flex rope (some models are not come with cut marks, Do Not cut that neon strips). There are clearly marked cut lines on the side or bottom of the silicone tube, usually every 50mm or 100mm. Cutting it is easy, but sealing it to get that IP67 rating back is the tricky part. You'll need an end cap and the right silicone adhesive to do it properly. 

That's voltage drop, and it's totally normal for any low-voltage LED product. An addressable LED neon rope will show it more obviously because the colors can get skewed, too. On 12V, you'll see it after about 5 meters (16ft). For longer runs, you either need to inject power at multiple points or, better yet, start with a 24V version. 24V pushes the power further down the line, so you can often get 10m runs before needing to re-inject. Our voltage drop guide explains how to wire it.

You need a specific addressable, or 'pixel', LED controller that speaks the same language as the chip inside the strip. Most of our digital addressable led neon flex pixel strips use protocols like WS2811, SK6812, or DMX. You can't use a standard RGB or single-color dimmer. The controller needs to send data to each pixel, not just power. We list compatible controllers on every product page, from simple remotes to advanced app-based and DMX systems.

For any run over 5 meters (16ft), go with 24V. A 24V addressable led neon strip will have much less voltage drop, meaning the brightness and color will stay more consistent over longer distances. 12V is fine for shorter projects, like DIY signs or accent lighting where you're only using a few meters. But for architectural coves, building outlines, or anything longer, 24V will save you a lot of headaches with extra wiring.

Absolutely. Silicone led neon is what we sell because it doesn't yellow in the sun, it's more flexible at low temperatures, and it's much more resistant to cracking over time. PVC looks fine at first, but it gets brittle and can yellow from UV exposure, which ruins the color of the light. For any serious or outdoor project, silicone is the only professional choice. 

This has to do with the LED density inside addressable neon lights. If the internal SMD density is around 60 LEDs, some colors may appear as individual dots of light; if COB light strips are used inside, the light will be completely seamless.

For large-scale architectural jobs where you need real impact, you'll want one of our larger commercial-grade profiles, like 40x25mm or even 50x20mm. A tiny 6x12mm strip that looks great on a sign will just disappear on the side of a building. The larger sizes are much brighter and have the visual weight to be seen from hundreds of feet away. They're built tougher for those kinds of projects, too.

It's exactly what it sounds like—it describes the direction the strip can bend. Side-bend (or side-emitting) flex bends on its side, like you're making a ribbon into a circle. This is what you'd use for tracing the outline of letters or wrapping around a curved facade. Top-bend flex bends up and down, like going over a hill. This is better for following gentle contours in a ceiling cove or landscape feature. Using the wrong one will make your curves look jagged and can damage the strip.

No. IP67 means it's protected against temporary immersion up to 1 meter deep for 30 minutes. It's perfect for rain, sprinklers, and outdoor building facades. For actual underwater use in a pool or fountain, you need an IP68-rated product. IP68 is designed for continuous submersion. Using an IP67 product underwater will eventually lead to failure from water ingress, especially with pool chemicals involved.

This is a data signal problem, not a power problem. First, check that your 'Data' wire is securely connected from the controller to the strip's 'DIN' (Data In) pad. Second, make sure you've selected the right IC chip type (e.g., WS2811) and the correct number of pixels in your controller's settings. If the controller is telling 300 pixels to light up but your strip only has 150, you'll get weird results. Check those two things and you'll probably fix it.

Yes, our kits are designed to be plug-and-play. A typical addressable led strip neon light kit will include the neon rope itself, a compatible pixel controller with a remote or app connection, and the correct voltage power supply to run the whole thing. We even pre-wire the connectors for you. It's the easiest way to get started without having to worry about matching up three different components yourself.

Yes, we do this all day. Just send us your required lengths. Our engineers will create a full wiring diagram, parts list, and quote, usually within 12 hours. We can cut the addressable neon to your precise measurements, solder on lead wires of any length, seal the ends for outdoor use, and pair it with the perfect controller and power supply. We stock all the neon flex accessories to build it right.