Single Color Dimmer Series

It's all about how you want to control the lights. A knob dimmer is simple, physical control—turn to dim, push to turn off. An RF remote gives you wireless control from across the room. A WiFi or Bluetooth dimmer connects to an app on your phone, giving you control from anywhere and often letting you set schedules or integrate with smart home systems like Alexa or Google Home.

Simple math. Find the watts per metre on your LED strip's spec sheet. Multiply that by the total metres you're connecting to the dimmer. That gives you total watts. Then, divide by your voltage (usually 12V or 24V) to get total amps. Always choose a dimmer that can handle at least 20% more amps than your calculation. Overloading a dimmer will cause it to overheat and fail early.

Nine times out of ten, this isn't a faulty strip. It's an incompatibility issue. If you're using a wall dimmer with a dimmable driver, they might be fighting (e.g., a leading-edge dimmer with a trailing-edge driver). If you're using one of our DC dimmers, the flickering could be from an overloaded power supply or dimmer. Low-quality dimmers also use low-frequency PWM, which can be visible. Our high-frequency controllers, like the 20KHz models, eliminate that visible flicker completely.

The dimmer always goes on the low-voltage side. The correct order is: Wall Outlet (AC) -> Power Supply (converts AC to DC) -> DC Dimmer -> LED Strip. The power supply provides the correct 12V or 24V DC power, and the dimmer then controls the brightness of the strip. Connecting it anywhere else is a recipe for a dead dimmer, a dead strip, or both.

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. Instead of reducing voltage, the dimmer turns the LEDs on and off extremely fast. Your eye just sees this as a change in brightness. With standard PWM frequencies (around 500-1000 Hz), some people can perceive flicker, and it often shows up on video recordings. That's why we stock high-frequency controllers (up to 20KHz) which are so fast the flicker is completely imperceptible to humans and cameras.

A PIR (Passive Infrared) sensor detects body heat and motion. When you enter its range, like walking into a pantry or down a staircase, it automatically turns the lights on to a preset brightness. After you leave and it no longer detects motion for a set time (usually adjustable), it fades the lights back off. It’s a great 'set it and forget it' solution for hands-free lighting control.

Yes, easily. Most of our RF systems allow you to pair one remote to multiple receivers. You can have the receivers in different zones or rooms. You can also do the opposite: pair multiple remotes (like one by each door) to control the same single set of lights. Just follow the pairing instructions for your specific model to link them up.

You need three main parts. First, the single color LED strip light itself. Second, a non-dimmable DC power supply with the correct voltage (12V or 24V) and enough wattage for your strip length. Third, one of our single color dimmers, which goes between the power supply and the strip. Don't forget any 2-pin connectors or wire you might need to link them all together.

You have to check the IP rating. IP67, like our V1-WPM, means it's protected against temporary submersion in shallow water and is totally dust-tight. It's perfect for outdoor decks, landscape lighting, or humid areas. IP68 would be for continuous submersion. Anything less than IP65 is not meant for direct exposure to rain. We have a full range of outdoor waterproof LED controllers to match any job.

Start with the simple stuff. First, check the battery in the remote. It's the most common cause. Second, make sure you're within range (typically 15-30 meters with no major obstacles). If those don't work, the remote may have lost its pairing with the receiver. Just repeat the pairing process from the product's instruction sheet. It usually involves pressing a button on the receiver and then a button on the remote.